Will distortions of the national composition of the Derbent zone be preserved in the new census? Part 1

Walking route around Derbent: Walking through the Old Town

Derbent is a beautiful southern city with a rich history. Tourists from all over the world come here for a whole vacation - to walk the ancient streets, admire the citadel on the hill, visit museums and temples. What to see in ancient Derbent, if you only have 1 day left, read our guide.

It is very convenient to start exploring Derbent from the Naryn-Kala fortress. The architectural and cultural dominant of the city seems to hover above reality: the citadel, due to its fortification purpose, was built on a hill.

It is interesting not only to walk around the fortress, viewing it as an open-air museum, but also to use the citadel as an observation deck - it is convenient to see the main attractions from above, and outline the route for a further walk.


Territory of the Derbent fortress

© Julia Alisova

The Derbent fortress is very ancient; its construction dates back approximately to the 5th century. The foundation of the citadel is attributed to the Persians; later Arabs, Turks, and troops of the Russian tsars ruled here.

Today, the citadel complex is part of the Derbent Architectural and Historical Reserve; it is an architectural monument of federal significance and a World Heritage Site.

Be sure to check out the Historical Museum "Ancient Derbent", it stores many valuable finds from excavations, see the Khan's Palace, the bathhouse complex, and the gates. If you need souvenirs, buy them here, the prices and assortment are excellent.

You can walk along the walls of the fortress, taking in the city from a bird's eye view. When planning a walk, leave at least a couple of hours to get to know the fortress. By the way, if you are hungry, there are several cafes and restaurants open near the walls of the citadel. Here you can have a great lunch with panoramic views of the city and the sea coast.

Afterwards, go down to the Upper Town (this can be done by stairs), the most ancient residential areas in Derbent. It is divided into 9 quarters, here they are called mahals. You will enter the historical part of the city through one of the ancient gates - for example, Orta-kapi. This is the oldest and most beautiful city gate of Derbent; it was built in the 6th century. In the Middle Ages, Orta-kapi was considered the main gate, through which guests and high-ranking processions entered - for this reason they are so richly decorated.

This gate will take you along the colorful street 7th Magal, past the Bala Mosque, the Maiden Bath, which today houses the Derbent History Museum, straight to the Juma Mosque - the oldest Islamic shrine in Russia and the Caucasus. Derbent Juma Mosque was built in 733. Such a venerable age ensured her a worthy place in the list of sacred monuments of Russia and the whole world.

Friday mosque in Derbent

© Julia Alisova

Moreover, this is a whole complex of buildings: a madrasah, a cultural center, and residential buildings for the clergy have been opened at the mosque. There are four spreading plane trees of considerable age growing in the yard. They are protected as wildlife monuments of All-Russian significance. You can recognize the courtyard of the Juma Mosque from these plane trees from afar, if you look at the city from above.

When visiting the Friday Mosque, do not miss an architectural monument of a different direction. This is an Armenian temple from the mid-19th century, the Church of the Holy All-Savior. It managed to serve as a religious building, and today it is open as a museum of carpets and applied arts. Here you can see a collection of antique carpets, as well as handicrafts, modern and antique.

After visiting the museum, you will enter the more modern part of the city. Take a walk, for example, through the Park of Military Glory. There are plenty of cafes nearby if you're hungry, and souvenir stalls if you need to buy something to remember Derbent.

Temples of ancient Derbent

In Derbent, which arose and existed for several millennia at the junction of great cultures, representatives of different religious faiths get along well. There are Muslim and Christian churches, as well as a synagogue.

Juma mosque

  • Opening hours: daily, from 8:00 to 19:00.
  • Address: 7th Magal, block 127, building 10.

Even for many experienced travelers, it will be a real discovery that the oldest mosque in Russia is located in Derbent. According to ancient Arab historical sources, the first prayer in this religious building was performed in the winter of 733. Earthquakes and wars caused serious damage to the temple. 600 years after its discovery, it had to be restored. The work was supervised by the architect Taj ad-Din bin Mussa from Baku. The mosque looks impressive. The total length of the temple complex, which also includes the madrasah building and outbuildings, is 67 m. The main building is covered by a 14-sided dome, rising 17 m. The vaults of the halls are supported by four dozen square columns. The temple is deservedly one of the main attractions of ancient Derbent.

Church of St. Grigoris

  • Opening hours: daily, from 7:00 to 19:00.
  • Address: outskirts of Derbent, village of Nyugdi.

Taking a half-hour journey from Derbent by bus or car, you can see a unique architectural landmark. Here, in the small village of Nyugdi, there is an ancient Armenian church, built in 1916. The temple was consecrated in the name of the Bishop of Iberia and Albania, killed in the 4th century. leader of the Huns, and later canonized. The building, which immediately attracts attention with its impeccable proportionality of forms, is a magnificent example of Armenian religious architecture.

Church of the Intercession

  • Opening hours: daily, from 7:00 to 19:00.
  • Address: st. Lenina, 22.

The appearance of the main Orthodox church of Derbent is very unique. The fact is that the building was originally built as a parochial school. In 1902, a new building was erected for the religious educational institution, and the old mansion was consecrated as a church. Already in modern times, the temple first had a new bell tower, then a building for the priests to live. Tourists now enjoy taking pictures against the backdrop of the elegant church.

Route No. 2: By car in southern Dagestan

Regardless of what vacation plans you come to Derbent with, you should not limit your acquaintance with Dagestan to a single city. One free day is enough to see the sights of the south of the republic - emerald forests, mountains, waterfalls, fortresses. Southern Dagestan is amazingly beautiful with its special, subtropical nature.

This unique nature is presented in all its glory in the Samursky Nature Reserve - the only subtropical liana forest in Russia. There are several settlements located on the territory of the relict forest; it is easier to get here by car.

The distance between the Samur Forest and Derbent is approximately 60 kilometers. The flora and fauna of the reserve are mostly unique; many plants, animals and birds are listed in the Red Book. The trees in the forest grow both common and red-listed - and all of them are entwined with vines, of which there are dozens of species.

It’s not only interesting to walk through the protected forest; its territory opens up to sea beaches with black sand - an impressive sight. Also visit the waters of the Samur River, which gave the name to the reserve.

Khuchninsky waterfall

© Sergey Vasilets

After visiting the unusual forest, go see the miracle of nature - Khuchninsky waterfall. Sometimes confusion arises, since the waterfall located on the Khanag River is also called Khanagsky.

Be that as it may, the waterfall near the village of Khuchni is considered one of the most beautiful in the Caucasus - it is powerful, deep, located in a picturesque forest.

Khuchninsky waterfall falls in double stream. Its cascading shape is very recognizable: the first ledge, about three meters high, falls onto a rock plateau. The second stream is more powerful, its 15-meter height breaks up into millions of sparks.

A small lake forms at the foot of the waterfall; it is pleasant to swim in it on hot summer days. The best time to visit the waterfall is considered to be the months of May-June, when the Khuchninsky waterfall is the most powerful and full-flowing.

Just over 3 kilometers separate the waterfall and the medieval fortress. The ancient citadel of Seven Brothers and One Sister, or Khuchninsky Fortress, impresses with its powerful walls and towers. Its construction dates back to the early Middle Ages, and the fortress is well preserved for its advanced age. From the fortifications at its foot there is an excellent overview of the surrounding natural beauty.

Panorama of southern Dagestan

© Sergey Kozlov

This is not the entire list of attractions in southern Dagestan. If you have not just 1 day, but 2-3, you can visit the thermal resort of Akhty - its charming cobbled streets are reminiscent of the towns of southern Europe.

In summer it is easy to go hiking to the sacred Shalbuzdag mountain; this adventure is accessible to any experienced traveler. You can explore the colorful mountain villages, including the highest mountain settlement in Europe, the village of Kurush.

Or even go to visit your neighbors - to colorful Azerbaijan, why not? Short distances between Derbent and Baku allow you to make such a trip.

Or you can simply enjoy a trip through the hospitable southern region, with its special culture and nature.

House of Peter I

House of Peter I in Derbent

Derbent

The house of Peter I in Derbent is a small earthen hut where the emperor stayed during the Persian campaign in 1722. For a long time, the dugout was a kind of shrine for the residents of Derbent. In 1848, Prince Mikhail Vorontsov, governor of the Caucasus, ordered a fence made of stone pillars and anchor chains to be built around the hut. Later, instead of a fence, a pavilion was built. This place was visited by members of the imperial family and other famous people, including the writer Alexandre Dumas.

In Soviet times, the house of Peter I was not given any attention as a historical monument. The dugout gradually sank underground; a canteen was first opened in the pavilion for workers of the industrial plant, and then it was rebuilt into a residential building.

The building was given the status of a museum complex in 2015. During the excavations, the emperor's hut was partially restored. The colonnade above it was restored, and a monument to Peter was erected nearby and a modern museum was built. The exhibition is based on items discovered during excavations: ancient coins, bullets, crosses, fragments of weapons.

Beach holiday in Derbent

Every year Derbent becomes more and more popular not only as a city for historical excursions, but also as a beach resort destination. Thanks to the mild southern climate, you can swim and sunbathe here from May-June to the end of October, and if you take a ride to the beaches of southern Dagestan, you will find fine days in early November.

At the peak of the holiday season, in July and August, the water in the sea warms up to a comfortable +23…25 °C. The total length of the city coastline of Derbent is about 10 kilometers, however, not all of them are landscaped and will appeal to discerning tourists.

Derbent city beach

If you're in a hurry, take a walk along the beach in the city center. It is located near the railway station, however, it cannot boast of good tourist infrastructure.

Beach in Derbent

© Sergey Vasilets

The section of the coast here is almost wild; there are several changing cabins and stationary umbrellas. There is no rental of beach equipment - do not forget to take a beach mat with you.

However, the beach is quite suitable for a “wild” holiday. The shore here is sandy, the entrance to the sea is gentle and convenient, however, sometimes there are stones - be careful.

Conveniently, there are many hotels and guest houses near the beach, and there is no shortage of shops and cafes. However, the picture of an ideal holiday is slightly spoiled by the nearby railway line.

Beach Breeze

In recent years, the most popular coastal point of attraction for both tourists and the residents of Derbent themselves has become a new beautiful embankment.

Beach Breeze

© Sergey Vasilets

They are adjacent to Breeze Beach. This is a pleasant urban space for walking and relaxing: soft sand with a pink tint, shells that children love to collect, fountains, well-groomed alleys, palm trees and flowering flower beds.

The beach is equipped with the necessary infrastructure; you can rent a sun lounger and an umbrella. There are many changing cabins, showers, and foot taps on the beach.

It’s convenient that right on the shore, admiring the surf, you can drink tea in one of the cafes. Relaxation here is available not only during the day, but also in the evening, when the lights of lanterns and cafes come on. Nearby on the embankment there are kiosks with snacks, water, and ice cream.

Holidays in Derbent with children

Derbent is an excellent destination for a family holiday with children. There is everything that young travelers will like: tranquility and a peaceful atmosphere, excellent sandy beaches, many parks, a new seaside promenade for walks. The city also has children's entertainment centers, halls and playgrounds.

With older children you can stroll through the streets of the Old Town. Don't forget to check out the museums, such as the exhibition in the medieval Maiden Bath. Here you can see the collection “Culture and Life of Ancient Derbent” - girls will especially like it.

WIG Lun

© Victor Bashkir

But male representatives of any age will certainly be captivated by an unusual object - the Lun ekranoplane. The legendary giant of Soviet aviation, the missile-carrying ship, is not without reason nicknamed the “Caspian Monster”.

The exhibit of the future Patriot military park is so huge that so far only the bow of the ship has been pulled ashore. Hurry to see: the world's largest ekranoplan missile carrier looks very picturesque and large-scale on the coast of the Caspian Sea.

Absolutely all tourists, of any age, will enjoy the Derbent citadel of Naryn-Kala. Walking along its walls, look into the corridors of the underground prison, the premises of the Khan's Palace, and the Ancient Derbent Museum - its collection looks impressive.

Did you come to Derbent in the summer? This means that you will certainly enjoy a visit to the water park - the most popular entertainment venue in the warm season. Derbent water park "Aqua Land" can offer entertainment for adults and children: water slides, attractions, swimming pools, recreation areas by the sea with sun loungers and umbrellas. There is a resort hotel attached to the water park, as well as a café where you can grab a bite to eat.

The city’s cultural poster is in demand all year round among tourists with children. At the Lezgin Musical and Drama Theater you can watch children's performances, fairy tales and educational stories on stage. Teenagers will be interested in quests and master classes, and romantically minded girls will enjoy poetry evenings.

Kele Numaz Synagogue

Synagogue "Kele-Numaz" Derbent

The Republic of Dagestan

For many centuries, different religions coexisted in Derbent. Since the 13th century, the Jewish urban community has been the largest in the North Caucasus. In the 19th century, there were more than ten synagogues in the city; only one has survived to this day - Kele-Numaz of 1914. It is located on Tagi-zade Street, which used to be the center of the Jewish Quarter.

The construction of the synagogue was financed by the five Hanukaev brothers, well-known merchants in Derbent at that time. By 2000, the building had become very dilapidated and needed restoration: it was completed in 2010. Nowadays, the Kele-Numaz synagogue houses the Jewish Community Center, men's and women's mikvahs (pools for ritual ablutions) and the Museum of Mountain Jews.

Holidays and festivals in Derbent

In recent years, Derbent has been claiming the title of cultural capital of southern Dagestan. Holidays, festivals, exhibitions, premieres take place here. You can go to the museum, look at the galleries of paintings and photographs, and in the evening go to a theater or film premiere.

The year begins brightly and festively - with a New Year tree, fireworks, and colorful illumination. The green beauty (in 2019, one of the tallest in our country) is installed in the city center, on Freedom Square. The event is illuminated by thousands of fireworks, children dance in circles, and adults are entertained by concerts and shows.

In the spring, multinational Derbent celebrates Maslenitsa , a farewell to winter, and the holiday of Novruz , the Muslim version of welcoming spring. These are holidays of food, jokes, laughter, and meetings with friends. In April, all guests and residents of Derbent will be fed by a barbecue festival , in which chefs from different countries participate. And on May 9, the whole city will gather to honor the memory of the heroes of Victory Day .

Dance festival in Derbent

© Julia Alisova

On July 26, the entire republic celebrates Constitution Day . Concerts, performances by artists, vibrant dance and music shows await you throughout Derbent. On this day the city dances, has fun and treats!

“Caspian Sea - Sea of ​​Friendship” awaits guests . The festival program includes exhibitions, fairs, performances by artists, master classes on folk crafts and special ethnic skills of the republic.

Every year, on the third Saturday of September, Derbent celebrates City Day . The most massive celebrations took place in 2015, when the city celebrated its anniversary - 2000 years since its founding.

But in subsequent years the holiday is celebrated cheerfully and on a grand scale. The holiday takes place on the central streets of Derbent, and on the main city square, concerts, shows, and performances by music and dance groups await guests. The festive evening ends with bright fireworks.

In the fall, the Samur Autumn ; its program includes an exhibition of folk crafts, concerts of folk groups, and fairs where you can try local delicacies.

Museum "Carpets and Decorative Arts of Dagestan"

Museum of Carpet and Decorative Arts of Dagestan

Derbent

The Museum of Carpets and Decorative Arts of Dagestan is located in the building of the Armenian Cathedral of Christ the All-Savior. It was built in the 19th century according to the design of the writer Gabriel Sundukyan. Here are collected carpets decorated with bright traditional patterns - felt and wool, smooth and pile.

The exhibition also includes samples of Dagestan folk crafts, which residents of different villages specialize in: jewelry from craftsmen from Kubachi, copper-chased dishes from Gotsatl, wooden products with carvings and inlays from Utsunkul, which has been famous for its woodworking craft for more than two centuries.

You can see in the museum both toys and dishes with traditional paintings from Balkhar, Ispik, Kala, Sulevkent - the largest centers of ceramics.

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