We went to see Staraya Russa on the weekend and was very pleasantly surprised by the city. I will try to describe for you the most interesting sights, tell you where to eat deliciously and inexpensively, and also where is the best place to take a walk.
What does the city's official website say:
“Staraya Russa is one of the oldest Russian cities, founded in 1167 on the Great Waterway “From the Varangians to the Greeks”... The territory of the city and region is equipped with modern types of communication: telephone, radiotelephone (coming soon), e-mail.”
So, we are going to the ancient city, where we finally sent email!
The road and first impressions of the city.
Our adventures began at the Novgorod bus station. Before departure, everyone's tickets are checked, and if you arrive 5 minutes before the bus departs, the cashier will send you to the driver, from whom you can also buy a ticket.
But this is according to the logic of normal people, but Novgorod controllers think differently. Our controller was an older woman with the appearance of a seasoned boxer. She yelled at such a late person, said that he had no right to get on the bus, but had to stand next to the bus and wait, then she said that now he needed to go back to the ticket office and buy a ticket.
As the passenger exited, he warned the driver that he would now buy a ticket and return, but as soon as he exited, the doors closed and the bus left.
These are the good employees and drivers at the Novgorod bus station. The quality of the road to Staraya Russa is very poor and it is somehow all uneven. It’s as if the kind cow from the advertisement walks there every day, making bubbles on the road. Everyone who has ever gone there knows about this, so when getting into the front seats there is a real fight. Grandmothers push everyone away and do not pay attention to any things left behind, in pursuit of a place in front (there is less motion sickness there).
Before the trip, drink something to combat motion sickness
, this will greatly brighten up the impressions of the trip.
The entire city can be walked on foot in an hour, and a taxi from the station to the farthest point costs 60 rubles. Our entire walk along Staraya Russa took 3.5 hours. During this time we walked around the whole city and had lunch.
No bullshit will be written under the bridge
How to get there
Last weekend, for the first time in history, the Lastochka train from St. Petersburg arrived in Staraya Russa. It departs on weekends from Moskovsky Station at 7:17 to Bologoye, where it arrives at 10:27. From there it arrives in Staraya Russa at 14:00.
For those who do not want to make a detour or are traveling from Veliky Novgorod, the easiest way to get there is by car (100 km from Veliky Novgorod, 300 km from St. Petersburg). From Veliky Novgorod the road leads along the Pskov highway to Shimsk, then turn left to the bridge over the Shelon River.
There are also regular buses and minibuses into the city.
Sanatorium "Staraya Russa"
We got here by taxi for 60 rubles and it was at the very end of the city; if you walk from the station, it will take about 40 minutes.
Entrance to the territory on weekdays is free, on weekends and holidays only 50 rubles. I was very pleased with the administration’s approach that they give city residents the opportunity to walk around the park for free, and the area there is not empty - there are also outdoor exercise equipment and good playgrounds. But then they told me that the administration was simply tired of fighting with the locals who made holes in the fence.
Now about the resort itself, in order to evaluate it you need to compare what was and what is.
The Staraya Russa sanatorium was opened in 1828. Thanks to the pine forest, dry air, mineral spring and healing mud, it has become a real pearl of the empire! Previously, Tsars and writers came here for treatment, now generals and prosecutors (their dachas are located not far from the sanatorium).
In the very center of the resort there was a huge mineral fountain, which carried useful minerals throughout the park. It was so strong that a luxurious royal dome was built around it so that it would not wet the guests.
The royal dome of the fountain
All this joy continued until the Second World War. Unfortunately, the city was completely destroyed. There is not a single whole house left in it. And after the war, the Staraya Russa sanatorium was restored in accordance with the ideas of communism and post-war opportunities: creaky beds, kefir for breakfast, and everything else is bourgeois excess.
A new Soviet dome was built around the fountain! I remember it when I was little - it was a terrible, dirty structure in which I was forced to walk. It was boring wet and disgusting!
On this trip I expected to see peeling buildings and remnants of the Soviet past. This is probably why I was very pleasantly surprised by the current state of the resort: beautiful restored buildings, polite security guards, perfect cleanliness in the park, several walking paths have been made.
Fountain today. Its value is artificially reduced
In general, I thank the administration very much. They are moving in the right direction. Everywhere there are some signs describing the growing plants and birds flying nearby. There are good playgrounds and many birdhouses. In general, the impressions are very positive!
But the Staraya Russa Sanatorium is named so for a reason; people come here for treatment. And here everything is not very good yet. In terms of prices, a week of treatment here would cost the same as a vacation in Paris, and the comfort does not even reach Egypt. Many vacationers are cunning - they rent housing in the city, and in the Sanatorium they only take procedures, this turns out to be 30-40% cheaper. Entrepreneurs have understood this and are building good hotels in the city.
Another big plus: there is a Drinking Gallery on site. You can take healing water with you for free. Entrance to all other buildings is only with electronic passes!
From such washbasins healing water flows. Bring your own bottles
One of the buildings. Swallows live under its roof
Good playgrounds, not plastic garbage
Manor of a medieval Rushan
It deserved its place in our TOP for the hospitality of the owners, for the humor of the main builder, but the key factor is that it is located right at the exit from the sanatorium and why not actually stop by.
The estate is open from 11.00 to 18.30 without lunch and weekends and is completely free. I recommend that you leave at least 50 rubles there, or buy something, because the guys are trying very hard. Their main task is to tell the history of Staraya Russa, what people did here and how they lived. All guests are greeted with bread and salt, which they make themselves according to an old recipe. The visit time is about 15 minutes. If you come with children, they can be allowed into the pen with the chickens and rabbits. The craftsmen sell wooden horses, and he entertained us by giving different commands and pulling strings. I was very pleased.
The master sells such horses for 1000 rubles
What to take with you
When going to Staraya Russa, do not forget to take with you
- swimwear,
- bottles for mineral water,
- volume of The Brothers Karamazov (joke).
If you are visiting in the summer, then swimming in the resort lake is a necessary attraction. Not to mention that on the way to Staraya Russa you can stop at Lake Ilmen and swim there!
At the resort you can collect healing water; for this it is best to have a plastic bottle with you. Or you can simply buy a souvenir sippy cup or bottle in the park.
Resurrection Cathedral
The Resurrection Cathedral can easily be considered the hallmark of the city. It is located in the very center, so it is difficult to miss. You drive along the main street, cross a wooden bridge and here on the bank of the river rises a beautiful, bright and all green building. Looks very impressive! Meanwhile, it is already more than 300 years old. Many thanks to the rector of the cathedral and everyone who serves there!
I still don’t understand what is written here
Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery
The Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery belongs to the Novgorod diocese. It rises above the Polistya River, and in ancient times bore the name “In Rus on Posad”.
The monastery was founded in the 12th century, was destroyed and burned more than once, was besieged by the Swedes and Lithuanians, but was again restored and flourished. The stronghold survived, and today Staraya Russa is unthinkable without it: sights, photos with descriptions of the Transfiguration Monastery are included in all guidebooks. Be sure to visit it, admire the architecture and interior, listen to the ringing of the bells. Beautiful, with an amazing history, it is included in the program of many Charm Travel tours. The sights of the great Novgorod include, among other things, the famous Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery.
Where to eat inexpensively and tasty
This is very important, since the average bill in a cafe here is 1000 rubles for two, and the quality of food is very low. The cafe is very smoky, and after the main restaurant "Polist" many people have food poisoning.
Locals recommended the Sadko cafe, on the square where the water tower is. The food is very tasty, the service is fast. Our bill for 2 was 300 rubles - that’s 2 brewed coffee, 2 dumplings with sour cream and 2 solyanka. We were very pleased and recommend it to you.
